name of an old/vintage toy? help?
Made in the 70’s-might have been called clackers or knockers-2 hard plastic/glass balls on a string-made a “clacking” noise when u banged them together—also would anyone know where I could find a set–tried Ebay-new ones don’t make the noise
(sorry not really the right category but this one gets a lot of traffic-lol) THANKS!!!!!
Mcdonalds child hood toy- vintage- please look?
I want to buy an old childhood toy. Im not able to find it anywhere. It was a mcdonalds play set that would allow you make french fries, soft drinks so on. to make french fries you would put a peice of sandwich bread in a slicer and rotate the handle. the bread would be cut into french fry looking peices. the set came with plasic soft drink cups, and plastic french fry holders. does anyone know the name of this play set? or can you find a picture of it? did anyone else play with this toy as a kid? everytime i eat sandwich bread i think of mcdonalds.
How to Collect Action Figures
This short guide will help you decide what you want to collect, how to start collecting and the best places to look for action figures.
The information is particularly aimed at the action figure collector but much of the advise is applicable no matter what you are thing of collecting, whether it’s stamps, postcards, toys or even kitchen sinks!
Ok, let’s get on with it.
You have some important decisions to make.
First ask yourself…
Why do I want to collect action figures?
Is it :
For financial gain For enjoyment
Most people collect for one of these two reasons. The answer will affect many of your choices and decisions over the course of this guide so it is important for you to decide now before you continue.
If your primary goal is to make money then make sure you read my “How To Make Money Collecting Action Figures” guide after reading this.
If it is for the pure fun and enjoyment of collecting, then great, this report will help you keep your costs down.
What Should I Collect?
How do you decide what to collect?
And
What to buy?
Hmm, good questions.
Have you decided yet?
Not sure?
Take your time, think carefully about your choice.
If you don’t you’ll end up with nothing more than a box full of miss-matched figures. All unrelated, incomplete and without any uniformity or consistency.
This may seem an obvious but so many times in the past I’ve seen collectors who don’t think about exactly what they want to collect first.
The result?
They end up trying to collect everything.
If you’re a card collector decide WHAT cards you want to collect?
Trading cards, card games, science fiction, cartoon, TV, Star Wars, Star Trek, Fire engines…..
If you’re a stamp collector WHAT stamps do you want to collect?
Animals, trains, Thai, French, 1800’s, planes, George Washington, civil war….
If you’re a coin collector WHAT coins do you want to collect?
Gold, silver, bronze, Roman, Greek, British, American Civil War……
If you’re an action figure collector WHAT action figures?
Movies, Star Wars, wrestling, baseball, cartoons, TV, Simpsons, PC Game figures……
Get the picture?
OK, so what’s the answer?
Before we start you will need a pen and some paper and a cup of coffee, or tea (or a beer if you prefer, mines a Bud
Now we’re going to do some brainstorming.
How To Choose A Subject
Think about the following questions:
What movies do you like?
Who is your favourite movie star?
What sports do you like?
What are your favourite teams?
Who is your favourite baseball star?
What are your favourite TV programs?
What cartoons do you like?
Do you like Action, Horror, Sci-Fi, or Fantasy?
Write down your answers and build a list of subjects that you like and enjoy to watching, reading about or playing. Make sure they’re things you really like or enjoy something that grabs your imagination and is close to your heart. Something you are passionate about and care about.
There’s nothing worse than collecting something that you have no passion for. That becomes a business, or worse still WORK. I know some people who collect purely for monetary reasons and they have no enthusiasm for it and get no pleasure from it.
Now take a look at your list and choose between 1 to 3 unrelated subjects.
Why?
Because:
If one is to narrow (more on this in a minute) you can start on one of your other choices. To give your collection, and you, some variety.
Good, now you need to: Decide On A Niche
Ok, so what’s a niche?
A niche is like a sub-topic of a larger topic, it is more concentrated and specialist.
For example a main topic or subject in action figure collections, and probably one of the most popular, would be Star Wars figures. But that is a HUGE market, so a niche here would be R2D2 figures or Darth Vader.
Get the idea?
Personally though I would not recommend anyone starting a collection based on Star Wars figures for the same reasons I NEVER stocked any in my shops or sold them on my website.
The market is too big. There are too many. The competition is fierce. The market is saturated.
But that said if your mind’s set on collecting Star Wars figures then choose your niche carefully. Make sure it’s small enough to be affordable and collectible. For example you could specialize in collecting Luke Skywalker figures. Or you could specialize in figures from any one of the movies (although this topic is probably also a bit too broad).
Another good example of choosing a niche would be instead of collecting McFarlane’s Baseball figures choose your favourite team or a couple of teams or players, and stick with them.
You’ll be thankful you did because there is nothing worse than having all the figures in set or series “except for…”.
It leaves you feeling incomplete and with a need to fill the space
The main objective of this exercise is to find a niche that is tight enough to enable you to:
build your collection complete each release/series keep costs down increase your enjoyment and satisfaction take pride in your collection give your collection uniformity build on a theme
So, in conclusion take your time in deciding on your niche now, then stick with it. If you find it’s too narrow a niche you can always broaden it later or move onto one of your other choices.
But by being selective in choosing your niche now you will get more enjoyment and satisfaction out of your collection and probably save time and money later.
OK, so you’ve chosen your subject and your niche.
What now?
Now you need to decide…
Collect ‘em All?
You are probably thinking, “Of course I do”
But wait a minute…
…and think it through before committing yourself.
This decision will greatly influence how much you are going to spend on your collection and it will give you a better focus on what to look out for.
Most lines of action figures include regular figures, variant figures, chase figures, collectors editions, limited editions and exclusives etc.
Each “level” of rarity becomes more expensive than the previous level. The cheapest being the regular figures but at the same time these are the ones that are the most common and mass produced so rarely have any secondary value.
Again it is important to decide now because if you change your mind later you may have a hard time getting some of the figures you’ve missed.
Not sure what a variant, chase, or exclusive figure is?
Then read my “What Is A Variant Figure Report” article.
Good, almost done.
New Or Secondhand?
Do you want to collect new or secondhand?
Carded or uncarded?
Mint, near mint or…?
Do you want to keep them boxed?
Or display them?
All these decisions again will affect the final price you will have to pay for your figures.
If you’re a budget collector then your best bet would be to go for second-hand figures and save buying the new ones for special figures or ones that you particularly like.
If you’re into customizing your figures then second-hand figures is also an obvious choice. But if you have the spare cash and want your figures in pristine condition to display then new figures is the way to go. But if you’re a perfectionist and wish to ensure they stay in absolute mint condition and retain their value you will probably want to buy two of each.
Why?
Many purist collectors will often opt to purchase two figures so they can keep one carded and in Mint condition and open the other to display.
Which you decide to do will of course depend on how much money you can afford to spend on your hobby, and the actual value of the figure.
Generally second-hand non-mint figures have very little to no value whereas Gem-Mint carded figures will often increase in value over time, particular the variant figures or limited production runs.
My personal recommendation would be to keep any chase, variant, exclusive or Super Chase figures carded or buy two if you want to display one.
This is what I usually do, or I buy a good condition second-hand figure for display and a carded one to be kept.
Many toy stores or hobby shops will sell there own ex-display figures or items with damaged cards at a cheaper price.
Make sure if you’re putting any on display, particularly any rarer ones, that they are displayed and protected properly.
Beware of massively overproduced mass market figures, as these, even in Gem Mint Carded condition are unlikely to increase in value for a long time.
I enjoy having most of my figures on display and I used to have a huge diorama of a wilderness landscape with dragons and monsters displayed that looked awesome and was hugely popular.
But unfortunately since moving I’ve not had time to make another…
Yet…
But I will talk about building dioramas and displays some other time.
I am trying to find a picture of Klara Klucker a vintage chicken toy made by PAAS in the 1980’s can you help?
I don;t know if her name is spelled correctly but I had this chicken toy when I was 3 and am looking for it for my daughter. I know that PAAS also made Dudley the Rabbit at the same time. As I remember Klara squeaked when you squeezed her and was made of vinyl. I am looking for a picture or someone who has one who is willing to sell it. Any info on where I could maybe find her would be of great help thank you very much ^^
CLONE WARS & others Action Figures from Star Wars in 2008
The Star Wars Clone Wars collection of action figures. Some of these are the collections of Star Wars action figures released 7/26/08 while others are released recently. The holographic grievous was only available at Toys R Us either at Midnight Madness on Friday or on Sunday. Target had the exclusive Commander Fox figure. Many of the figures have the 1st day of issue sticker along with a shiny Star Wars logo on the top which is similar to the ultimate galactic hunt figures over the last couple of years. The figures are Holographic Grievous, Commander Fox, Anakin Skywalker, Obi-Wan Kenobi, Captain Rex, Grievous, Battle Droid, Yoda, Clone Trooper, R2-D2, Imperial Evo Trooper, Clone Trooper, Scuba Trooper, Saesee Tiin, Obi-Wan Kenobi, Mon Calimari Warrior, Bane Malar, Quarren Soldier, IG Lancer Droid, Padme Amidala, Yarna D’al Gargan, Ak’Rev, Leektar & Nippet, Luke Skywalker, Han Solo, Saga Legends: Yoda & Kybuck, Obi-Wan Kenobi, Clone Trooper, General Grievous. Themovies are Star Wars: Episode I 1 The Phantum Menace TPM, Episode II 2 Attack of the Clones AOTC, Episode III 3 Revenge of the Sith ROTS, Episode IV 4 A New Hope ANH, Episode V 5 Empire Strikes Back ESB, VI 6 Return of the Jedi ROTJ along with the Clone Wars. There are new trailers regarding Clone Wars and The Force Unleashed video game online. Check out my channel for more figure videos from the other packaging collections. Tags: Dave Filoni, George Lucas, Euphoria, dmm, havok, El poder de la fuerza, Ahsoka Tano …
Do You Need to Have Your Action Figures Professionally Graded?
Professional Grading
It is because of the problems and unreliability of the C-Scale grading system that the demand for an internationally recognized and accepted grading system grew and led to the explosion in the professional action figure grading services.
Do You Need Professional Grading?
If you plan on selling any of your action figures, particularly any vintage or valuable figures you want to get the best bang for your bucks, so yes you should get them professionally graded. BUT If you are going to pay to have your action figure’s condition and authenticity verified by a professional grading service make sure it is a well known, established and respected company that you use.
A Word of Caution… Having your action figure/s professionally graded can be expensive so only get those figures that are either vintage figures or valuable figures professionally graded.
What or Who Are the AFA?
The Action Figure Authority (AFA) was born from a frustration of all the different systems and scales that where being used in the market to grade action figures without any uniformity or standardization. More collectors are beginning to demand that valuable figures are professionally graded before accepting them and more dealers seem to be accepting that a valuable action figure should be professionally authenticated and graded. The AFA is committed to meet or exceed the action figure markets unique requirements while promoting a healthy and fun environment for all. AFA state that their main goals and aims are to:
give the collector the advantage by revealing each action figures true characteristics, thus promoting the healthy growth of sight unseen purchases of action figures. to gain your trust and respect. to create a consensus that AFA’s grading standard accurately reflects the input of all collectors and dealers. to promote interest in the collecting of action figures by the safe and enjoyable purchasing of AFA graded figures.
The AFA Grading Scale
The AFA Grading Scale consists of three levels, each with three sub-levels. These are there Gold, Silver and Bronze levels.
AFA Gold The Premium level is the AFA Gold level which consists of the grades 100, 95, and 90.
AFA Silver level The second level is the Silver level which consists of the grades 85, 80, and 75.
AFA Bronze Level The Bronze Level action figure consists of the grades 70, 60, and below. Action Figures that receive these grades typically have damage ranging anywhere from simply noticeable at first glance to extremely significant.
AFA Sub grades
There are three sub grades for AFA Graded action figures which are assigned for the Card, Blister, and the Action Figure. Once the grader has been established the overall grade for your action figure, they will assign individual grades for each of these three categories.
What Defects Will Affect My Action Figures Grade?
Creases, bends or tears. Price tag marks Blistering or bubbling Discoloration Broken limbs Yellowing Bubble or card separation
These are a few of the more common defects or faults found that will affect your action figures value.
Autographed Action Figures
Over the last few years that has been a large increase in the number and variety of action figures available of stars particularly from TV Series, Sports and Music which has resulted in an in figures autographed by the star or character depicted by the action figure. My guess is that with this becoming more and more popular the Professional Grading sites will begin to include autograph verification into there service, however this is an area fraught with dangers and hazards.
NEED HELP IDENTIFYING AN ANTIQUE/VINTAGE TOY CAR I FOUND?
I Found this car metal detecting. I was very dirty and had the original black wheels, but they broke into pieces when my fiance tampered with them.
It is all metal (possibly cast aluminum?)
Can’t find any info on this type of car.
If anyone can answer the following questions, I would be grateful.
make
model
year
who possibly made it? (I think I see writing, but it’s too faded to tell)
what type of medal it looks like
about what year was it made
is it worth anything in this condition
Refer to the following pics
Thank you
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l74/missmarie253/ebay/DSCF6106.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l74/missmarie253/ebay/DSCF6108.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l74/missmarie253/ebay/DSCF6110.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l74/missmarie253/ebay/DSCF6112.jpg
how to clean age discoloration – oxidation? – from plastic?
I have a vintage toy from 1963 that is worth $$. I want to make it as nice as possible for sale. A part of the toy is a sky blue plastic stand. The age discoloration on this is very obvious as the area where it connects to the rest of the toy is a much brighter, cleaner sky blue while the rest that is exposed to air is darker and has a brownish tint. Looks kind of like grease. Is there some specific cleaner that would be best for removing this? I don’t wanna use anything abrasive or with bleach. Is some kind of solvent what I want? Is oxidation the correct word for this discoloration from age?
Mike
RC Cars – Toys For The Big Boys
They say that boys will be boys and although that can be a very subjective generalization, the evolution of boy’s toys into a hobby for grown men can attest to the fact that some boys never grow up-at least in terms of their toy cars.
RC (radio controlled) cars is the general term for any car model that uses a radio control system for remote management. However, there are two types of RC cars: the toy grade, which was designed for young boys; and the hobby grade which is the choice of adolescent boys and men of all ages.
The only similarity between the toy and hobby grade RC cars is that they are both models of land vehicles that are used via remote radio control system. The main difference in the two types of models however is that the toy grade one is just a bunch molded plastic that resembles the look of a miniature car, while the hobby grade types are actual miniature models of vehicles that come with individual parts assembled much like a real, full sized car. In fact, hobby grade RC cars are treated exactly like real cars because it requires regular maintenance and run on actual miniature car engines.
Some hobby grade RC cars run on electrically propelled machines while the rest run on gas powered engines. The complexity of hobby grade RC cars is probably the main attraction for men of all ages. That and the fact that hobby grade RC cars are made for racing that allow men to compete with each other using their personalized racing cars. An RC cars hobbyist will have to decide whether he wants a gas powered or electric powered vehicle. On both types of engines, there will be trade offs.
For instance, electric RC cars are generally lighter than their fuel powered counterparts. However, gas powered RC cars are faster than their electric counterparts. These trade offs are analyzed by the hobbyist in making his decision on which type of RC car to own. All these hobby grade RC cars come with complex parts that can be expanded and changed so that a hobbyist can own a gas powered car which he can change for an electric engine if he wants.
Because the RC cars are used for racing, they are fitted with extra powerful radio controlled systems that allow remote control from many distances. Not only that, since there are different terrain in which an RC car race can be held, there are also off-road models suited for all terrain racing because of their wheels and suspension.
Whether you have a electric RC car or gas powered rc cars, you can be assured that your car will need a lot of maintenance from repair and upgrading of car parts to cleaning and tuning to make sure that your race machine can hold its own out on the race track among other RC cars.
So you see, these RC cars are true toys for the bog boys. They are something that can be appreciated by grown ups in terms of complexity and ability for real races and it allows men to feel like boys again even for just a while.








